The 'taste' of 2004 red Burgundy

First to the taste. Despite early fears (i.e Jun - Aug) of oidium & even under-ripeness, the 2004's were harvested with surprisingly high sugar levels. Little need for the addition of sugar therefore. Indeed most growers remarked that there was no need to chaptalise. Acidities were decent. The fruit displayed good levels of freshness. So far so good. By no means a classic, 2004 was a welcome sequel to the 'atypical' 2003's & a good medium-term cellar vintage. There was some rot but sorting tables (triage) eliminated virtually all of that. As usual, the better addresses in Burgundy are well equipped to deal with moderate rot levels. Rot is not the problem.

Some 6-12 months after bottling the first hints of this 'taint' manifested. Initially in the odour, increasingly in the taste. It has been described as carbolic, green, wax-resin, chemical, astringent . . . and so on. Basically it is not particularly nice. Curiously, beneath the odour & after the 'taint' flavour, the fruit is in a perfect healthy state. The freshness has not been eroded or gone away.

How did it get there? This is considered a good question. Not before or since has this flavour, this 'taint', been evident in red Burgundy wines. So what made 2004 unique? Oidium, which causes rot, is a regular visitor to Burgundy. Treatments haven't changed. Mildew is no stranger either. Growers & oenologists alike rule out the rot theory. One potential culprit is the ladybird, for which there was an abundance in 2004. Ladybirds release pyrazines; a chemical compound which can effect the odour of wine and, where abundant, evidently the taste too. I have posted a second Blog today (07 Jan 2010) from an article by Bill Nanson in his Burgundy Report in the autumn of 2008. It is interesting, detailed & plausible. It may well prove to be the 'raison d'etre' for the 2004 'taint'. However, I emphasise that the jury is still out on this matter. To read this report just scroll down this Blog until you come to my next Blog entitled Bill Nanson - The Burgundy Report.

What of the wines? Regretably the incidence is increasing (see report). My own experience is identical to others elsewhere. That is to say, inconsistent, increasing & a cause for concern. Like everyone else too, I find the 2004's otherwise healthy, fruit-driven & fresh. All generic & most village wines drink now. Others will benefit from further keeping. Will this 'taint' diminish or even disappear? Time will tell, but the evidence so far is troubling.

Who is responsible? What can be done? The wine growers are likely to tell you that the ladybirds are responsible! They are certainly not recalling the wines. They argue (& correctly so) that not all wines are affected. Many are perfect. You will find that wines from the same case do not all have this 'taint'.

Wine importers are on a hiding to nothing. Though 2005 Burgundy deflected attention from the 2004's, the reality is, this problem has only manifested itself in the past 12 months. Both 2006 & 2007 Burgundy have been victimised I fear. This is a great pity as both vintages have plenty to offer. The 2006's in particular are proving to be of very high quality.

I will hold a tasting of 2004's in February & a full report will follow on the results. In the meantime, any feedback / comments / experiences etc would be welcomed.

Conor Richardson - Burgundy Direct Wines.
(to follow Conor's blog on a regulary basis follow this link .. http://www.burgundydirectwines.blogspot.com/)

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John Wilson's 50 Best Wines of 2009

Dom Talmard Macon Uchizy 2008
Deservedly popular in restaurants around the country for the last few years, this is a great example of the value available with the wines of the Macon. Crisp and dry but with a light honey/orange touch that fills out beautifully on the palate.

Georg Breuer, ‘Terra Montosa’ Riesling Trocken, Rheingau 2007
Breuer produces some of my favourite dry Rieslings and excelled in 2007, a great vintage in Germany. Fantastic, rich almost exotic pineapple fruits cut through with a rapier like acidity. Wonderful wine.

Simone Joseph, Syrah, Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes 2005
A younger vintage of this wine was amongst my favourite wines, the importer having held back the superior but more tannic 2005. Now we can all enjoy the gently seductive fragrant cherry fruits and fine elegant tannins that make thiswine such a bargain.

Dom Alary ‘Font d’Estevenas’ Cairanne Cotes du Rhone Villages 2007
I came across the 2007 vintage recently and was mightily impressed. Alary is one of the best names in the Southern Rhone, and this is one of his finest cuvees; big and powerful but with an excellent purity of ripe fruit, and a tight tannic structure. A very impressive wine that can only get better.

Fontodi, Chianti Classico 2006
2006 has proven a very good year for Chianti, the best wines combining lovely perfectly ripe fruit with fine tannins and good structure. Fontodi is one of the leading estates in Chianti Classico, run on organic principals by the amiable Giovanni Manetti.

Dom du Coulet ’Brise Cailloux’ Cornas 2006
Matthieu Barret uses biodynamic methods to fashion some of the most elegant and accessible Cornas. His wines retain the savoury character of the appellation, and are certainly ageworthy, but they are also brim full of wonderful seductive fruit. This is a heady mix of soft ripe liquorice and dark cherry fruits with a strong mineral edge and refined tannins coming through on the finish; a wine with wonderful power and finesse.

Ata Rangi, Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2007
Powerful but seductive young wine with intense dark cherry fruits, a lovely savoury twist and a lingering but tannic finish. A wine with real depth and quality that will thrill all Pinot fans.

Mount Horrocks ‘Cordon Cut’ Riesling, Clare valley 2006
This is the sort of wine that converts people to the joys of dessert wines. It is sweet but so perfectly balanced that it just seems fresh and wonderfully fruity. Made by a quite unique method, this is a must try wine that I cannot recommend highly enough. Superb tingling fresh orange peel and lime fruits, with a finish that goes on forever. It would go nicely with fruit tarts, but I would be sorely tempted to skip dessert and drink this instead.

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Greywacke, Marlborough, N.Z., Sauvignon Blanc 2009

We are really excited about this new addition to our winelist and for good reason.

Winemaker Kevin Judd was the man behind Cloudy Bay, where he built the reputation and success of this iconic Marlborough winery.

After retiring from Cloudy Bay in 2008, Kevin set to work producing a new Sauvignon Blanc with the aid of his friends and former Cloudy Bay Colleagues James Healy and Ivan Sutherland at their ‘Dog Point’ winery.

Now Kevin makes Greywacke - pronounced Greywacky – the name being derived from the greywacke rocks that are prevalent in this region.

Kevin’s famed ‘non-interventionist’ technique is to cold-ferment most of the ‘juice’ in stainless steel using cultured yeasts while a portion of the wine undergoes a spontaneous wild yeast fermentation in French oak barriques. All the various batches were left on the lees and kept separate until this July, at which time the final blend was assembled.

The wine shows all the hallmarks of Kevin’s famed style, ripe fruit, fine balance, great concentration and superb varietal intensity.

There are only 600 cases of this wine available in the UK and Ireland, so availability is limited.

Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc is available now in all three ely venues priced at €44.95

Taut, fresh Sauvignon Blanc with fine acidity and flavours suggesting gooseberry, green capsicum, mineral and lemon grass. Understated at first, the wine developed magnificently in the glass to reveal surprising power and flavour intensity. The best 2009 Sauvignon Blanc tasted to date.
  
Bob Campbell – Master of Wine, specialising in New Zealand wines. 5 Stars